Project COBRA'33 Project COBRA'33
The Preparation
Tackling a project as big as Project COBRA'33 requires tons of prep work, planning, organizing, buying and storing all the many kits and individual parts and pieces. It'd be impossible to list and describe all the preparations that went into this project, suffice it to say I was very busy organising everything that needed to be done from mid July till the first of December.
EDUCATION
Above is but a few of the books I read cover to cover, searching for any and all information related to to our rebuild. Every book had at least one good piece of advise, that was not covered by the others. While it is true, that there is a great deal of over-lap between the many different books, it's the interpretation and personal touches that makes each book unique and it's own.
As with any new project, the first thing one should do is to educate themselves about all the many subjects a project like Project COBRA'33 has. First, I read every book, article or magazine I had. Then I went to our local Library and checked it out, we live in a fairly large city and are lucky enough to have a very good library system. They had several up to date books covering early hot rods that I checked out and read. Next was a tour around the web looking for more books on the subject of building hot rods, with considerable infuses on chassis design and construction. Between the Web, Borders Books and the local Barnes and Noble I gathered a pretty good library of books covering everything from paint and body work to welding. As I read thru them, I highlighted areas I thought would come in handy latter. I have a very poor memory, so By Highlighting areas of concern, I make it easy for myself latter when I need to refresh my memory. Every book had something important relating to the build-up that I took with me, of-coarse some had more then others.
I started making phone calls to many of the manufacturers I selected as the ones I would like to have involved with me on Project COBRA'33. All were very helpful, explaining any of the many areas I had concern about. You can always tell the guys that have there stuff together, they are quick to answer your questions, are willing to send you literature on the subject and they don't make you feel funny about the questions you have. A lot of times I make my decisions on what particular manufacturer I will go with based on how the phone call went. Case in point, I new I was going to go with a Ford 4R70W automatic transmission, but I didn't know who was going to supply it. I called 4 or 5 performance transmission shops, all worthy suppliers, but made my mind up as soon as I call the last shop (no particular order, just worked out that way). That call was to Performance Automotive and Transmission Center, they answered all my questions, never hurried me or mad me feel like I was wasting there time, and they had a good product at a fair price. Sometimes I don't think businesses understand how important good customer service is.
ORGANIZATION
The amount of parts a project like this needs is huge, and since I don't live anywhere near a Hot Rod shop, every part was shipped. I realized right away I had to get organized and come up with a system that would allow me to keep track of all the parts bought and needed. I took advantage of all the features Excel had to offer and quickly came up with a spreadsheet (many) to track every part, when it was bought, from whom and for how much. This simple spreadsheet has been a blessing, and has saved me several times from ordering duplicate parts, or quickly allowing me to know what was purchased and where. I would strongly recommend that others do the same, even if only they use a simple filing system instead of the spreadsheet.
This is a shot of the back wall in our office. I am so glad we choose peg-board to cover the walls, it allows an almost infinite amount of adjust ability. While it may not look like it, there is well over $40,000 dollars worth of parts in this photo. Good organizational skills will help you save time and money thru out the project.
As the new parts arrived, they had to be inspected, checked against the invoice, stored and grouped by category. I stored everything in groups, like fuel system, exhaust system, lines and fittings, etc. This allowed us to quickly locate a part, and since you are usually working on one system at a time, all the parts were there and convenient. Another important consideration when storing parts is to remember most of these parts are very expensive, and you do not want to waste your hard earned cash by buying replacement parts or having them serviced. Make sure the area where you will be storing your parts is safe, and not in the line of traffic where others might accidentally knock something off the shelf. My situation was such that we were able to store everything in the office section of the shop, where conditions were well guarded.
Checking Your Order
Buying parts is a huge and most of the time, fun part of building your Hot Rod. Chances are, the majority of your parts won't come from the local Hot Rod shop, but rather from a mail order or web based dealer. The local Hot Rod shop is a good source of parts, and more important, advice. But all to often, unless your located in a huge metropolitan area, or in a hot spot for Hot Rods like California, you won't have a Hot Rod shop that is close to you and large enough to fill your needs. In my case, I do have access to a small Hot Rod shop, but I still find it better to deal with the larger shops and order over the Web. For me mail order and E-bay are much simpler, I enjoy researching the products I am interested in, by looking up the manufactures Web site. I can take as long as I like, studying the product and even calling the manufacturer or E-mailing them any questions I might have. I like dealing directly with the source, it eliminates mistakes and bad data which is often the case with second and third party information. After all, it's my project and up to me to get the facts. I can not count how many times I have been saved by dealing directly with the manufacturer, the more specialized the part, the more you need to contact the part manufacturer. This will save you time and money, wrong parts need to be returned which takes time and cost you postage and sometimes re-stocking fee's. Over the length of time a project like ours will take, you can rack up some serious money in re-turned parts and there associated fees. Get the facts you need from the most reliable source available, it well save you time and money.
Returns
I didn't plan on writing about this subject, but even with careful planing, I still managed to rack-up several returns. If you deal with enough mail order firms, you will need to at some point, make a return. Sometimes it's your fault, a wrong digit as you ordered something, weather it be in the part number or the quantity row. Other times it's there fault. But regardless of why you need to return something, you still must return it and return it right for credit.
There is a old saying," An once of prevention is worth a pound of cure". Before you hit the "Process" or "Complete Order" button, take the time to look over your order. Many times I have caught a mistake that would have required a return, by simply looking over the complete order form before sending it through. Check the quantities of each item, it is very easy to make a mistakes here. Also, many times you will be ordering several parts that are very close in part numbers, AN type fittings is a good example, where you might need several fittings of the same size, but different style. Here it is very common to have the part numbers look alike, but be separated by a single digit or two. The best way I have found to order parts is to make out your shopping list prior to placing the order. List all the parts you wish to purchase from that dealer, and have the part numbers, quantities and prices already listed. This takes a little time on your part, but greatly reduces the chance of a mistake while ordering. Now with list in hand, go to that web-site and purchase the parts listed, starting from the top and checking each one off as you list it.
Still know matter how hard you try, there is always a chance something will go wrong, and require you to make a return. People make mistakes, it's just a fact of life, so be prepared for it, not just angry over it. As soon as your package arrives, you need to check it over. Take the invoice and compare it to what they sent you, mark off each item as you inventory the box. Circle the part numbers of any discrepancies, and note the problem. Your not only looking for quantity mistakes, but to insure they sent a correct part and that it arrived in good condition. Now that the inventory is done, check out the invoice for return instructions. Many of the larger companies include return instructions as well as return labels with each order. Once you have all the facts, I like to call the dealer and let them know about the problem, even if you already have all the information you need to return the part. When calling the dealer, remember the girl or guy on the other end of the phone had nothing to do with your order, and mistakes happen and are apart of everyday life, so be kind. Most dealers have a set policy for returns, so make sure you write down everything you are suppose to do. Get the Return Authorization Number, and address for the return. Also make sure you write down any specifics on where to display that number or any customer information they may require. The whole key here is to get back your money, and or replacement part as soon and easily as possible, so play by the rules. Most companies are more then fair with there return policies, and will issue postage credits if the mistake was theirs. If you have a damaged part, remember that the dealers must go thru the process set-forth by the freight carrier, and this may be more complicated then a simple return. Yes buying parts thru mail-order can be a pain sometimes, but they also are the cheapest. It has been my experience, that practicing a few basic rules as described earlier, that 99% of the time, orders placed over the web are delivered without problem. If you place enough orders, especially through various vender's, you will sooner or later have a need for a return. Knowing in advance what to do, will greatly increase your odds in having a speedy and accurate return.
Materials
Undertakings like Project COBRA'33 need a fairly wide assortment of raw materials. Our project required many different sizes of rectangular, square and round tubing, various sizes of angle iron, flat stock and steel plate of several different thicknesses. All of these steel products are very , very expensive. Steel like all other materials have skyrocketed, and no one wants to buy more then they have to. Store your materials in a rack if possible, they keep the steel safe, assorted and ready for use. If a rack is out of the question, come up with some system that protects you and the steel from damage. As with all steel or aluminum products, safe handling practices should be used, they include the use of gloves to protect your hands from the sharp edges, work boots with steel toes to protect your feet and using the buddy system on heavy or awkward pieces to protect your back. Safety is something everyone should respect, it only takes a split second for something life changing to happen, use your head and take the time it takes to do it safe.
Material Handling
As stated above, you are going to need an assortment of raw materials to complete a project like ours. Most of the raw materials come in long (20' or 24' lengths) lengths and are very heavy. Considerations should be planed out before the materials arrive. Steel suppliers run a tight schedule, and are not to keen of waiting for you to take your time while unloading their truck. If you have many pieces coming that are heavy and require several people to UN-load, then have them there before the truck arrives. I would suggest that when ordering from your local steel supplier, you order all the pieces you need at one time. They generally give you better pricing on the larger the order, and will charge less, maybe even nothing for the delivery of larger orders. Also, don't be intimidated by the large companies, sure they deal with much larger customers then you, but you are still there customer and deserve to be treated as such.
These is an early picture of our matterial rack, though empty then, it has since been well stocked and probally holds some ten to twenty tons of raw matterials. Then looking for a place to store your steel and aluminum matterials, find one that takes into account your future as well as current conditions. Matterial should be stored in a well lite, dry part of the building.
I have always been a shopper, and shoppers like to compare prices. I see know reason why one should not shop around to find the best deals on all there needed material, car parts or steel tubing. Generally I like to make a list of all the different types of products I may need, there quantities, sizes and styles then fax it over to the steel vendor and have them price it out for me. Yes most steel vendors might not like doing it, but then again they are there to sell their products and if this will generate a sale, then so be it. You would be surprised how two alike products can cost so much more.
TUBING
Tubing will be the most expensive material you buy, so do your homework and don't spend more then you have too. Their are many different types of tubing, you have round, square, and rectangle tubing. All in an assortment of different sizes, strengths, lengths, thicknesses and materials. Tubing represents some of the most enjoyable materials to work with, they are used in every fabrication shop for making complex frames and suspension parts to structural and architectural pieces. On Project COBRA'33, we use square tubing for many of the lifts and holding brackets we made along with round tubing for the cross-members and transmission supports. Tubing is sold in many, many different styles, thicknesses and sizes, so be aware of what your local steel vendor stocks. Products they stock can be much cheaper then those that they don't keep on hand, something important to remember and another reason I like to get prices in advance. Some times you can be flexible in your materials, and this can really save money when one size is substantially higher then another. Case in point, your building a body cart. A simple 4-wheel cart to set the body on while you disassemble the frame. You figured you would make the frame out of 1-3/4" square tubing, but when you requested a written price sheet of all the different size metal, you noticed that 2" square tubing was much less then 1-3/4" square tubing, why? Most likely because they stock the 2" square tubing and maybe the 1-1/2" and 1" square tubing, just not the 1-3/4" square tubing. This has happened to me several times, and as long as you have some flexibility in what the size of the tubing should be, then there's no reason you can't change and save yourself some money.
Angle Iron
While there might not be a huge call for angle iron on a project like ours, angle iron is one of the most useful and versatile materials there is. It's strong and lends itself to many useful positions. Today, a great many utility and car haulers are made up of angle iron. It's unique shape makes it a favorite of many projects that require strength and quick assembly. Some of the more useful sizes would be 2"x2", 2" x3" and 3" x5" all in a variety of thicknesses ranging from 1/8" to 1/4".
Flat Stock
Most will find that flat stock is perhaps the second most useful material, it's used on everything from capping off an end of tubing to making a brace. Hot rolled steel is the cheapest and most likely the most popular, it comes in all sizes from 3/8" to 12" wide and in just as many thicknesses. I would think that a good selection of flat stock would consist of 1", 1-/2", 2", 3",4"and maybe 6" depending on what your needs are.
Sheet Steel
One of my favorites, but usually not very popular. Most site their lack of sheet steel use to expense, but I have found it to be a real money saver not the expensive option others think.
Yes sheet steel is expensive, but so is all steel products. What others are getting all caught-up in, is the high price per piece. Sheet comes in a variety of sizes like everything else, just these sizes are rather large, which accounts for the high price tag. The most common sizes are 4'x8', and 5'x10'. If your lucky enough to have a large steel supplier like I do, then they will also have access to a large shear, and will be more then happy to cut your sheet into sections. Because sheet steel is so clean and smooth, I like to buy sheets and have them cut into flat stock. This gives me supper nice flat steel to work with and also is much cheaper then buying normal flat stock. Because of the variety of work we do, I like to have many different sized of metal on hand. I generally take a sheet of say 1/4" sheet steel and have them cut it long ways into many different sizes. Something like 3 each of the following, 1",2",3",4" and 6". Then I might cut the rest into 3 or 4 easy to use square pieces, for use latter when I need to cut out a shape of sheet steel. All of this didn't happen over night, it took me a long time to figure out what best suits my needs and how to go about filing them. At first, I was just glade to get the steel delivered, but as you go along you gradually feel more confident in yourself and in your ordering abilities.
Specific Projects for this Car
Going into this project I new there were several areas of concern I had to address. Some were positioning and holding concerns and others were lifting and moving types of concerns. The shear size of Project COBRA'33 makes for some pretty big demands, and the biggest was lifting the completed frame and body. While those were the biggest, we also had some smaller concerns about positioning the frame and keeping it there. The following is how be addressed them.
The lift
I needed a way to lift the frame after it was finished welded, I also needed a easy and safe way to lift the many heavy items to be fitted to the frame, such as the engine, transmission and rear end housing. Also, as more and more parts started to come in, it became very clear that we also needed a lift that could easily unload a truck or something that arrived via freight carrier. Making one lift that would take care of one job would be simple, but to make one lift that would take care of all the lifting jobs would require a little more thinking. I didn't want 4-5 lifts sitting around taking up shop space waiting to be used, so it was important that the lift we designed would take care of all the lifting needs.
This is the drawing I can up with for the lift. It seems to fit the bill for our needs. Much of the matterial was stuff we already had laying around, the castors, electric lifts and I-beam Trolleies were all bought special for the project.
After listing all the different needs I had, I set about designing the lift. It had to be mobile, it had to have a way to easily slide items in place or remove them, and it had to have enough capacity to pick an engine or worse yet, a complete frame. Another consideration, was the welding area and the table, I had to be able to roll the lift into position over the table, which meant the lift had to have an overhang. These were the major considerations, the ones that would have to be meet if I wanted to keep it to just one lift.
I started designing the lift on my computer, taking into account all the "must have's" . I came-up with the following as the basis for my lift. It's movable with it's 4 casters, has an overhang that will allow easy movement in and out of position by utilizing an I-beam with two I-beam Trolley's. Is strong enought to lift an engine or frame with it's two overhead electric lifts and massive square tube body.
This is what we came up with....and so far it has worked great. The two electric overhead lifts allow easy lifting, the I-beam allows the lifts to roll along there path for easy placement, and the large 5" wheels allow easy movement, while not taking up to much shop space. We will use our lift much more as the project comes along.
Frame positioners and Holders
We needed a way to hold the frame at ride height while working on it, and also hold it at any position securily. The ideal was to make some type of stand that could be bolted to the welding table, yet ofered some type of adjustment up and down.
This is what we came up with, the base can be positioned anywhere we need it on the welding table and bolted to it. The adjustment comes from the top piece which slides into the bottom piece, and is held into position by 4-bolts that pin it to the sides of the base.
We made the above holders from square tubing, 2" for the base and 1-3/4" square tubing for the inside or top section. The base had a piece of 2" x6" flat stock welded to it, with 2 holes 3/8" in diameter for attachment to the welding table. These allow quick and convienent placement, when working on the frame, and setting up ride height. Yet allow easy storeage when not working and can be used to hold or position any number of things.
This shows the positioners in use, like the lift they too started out as drawings of a computer. With all the technological advances we have today, there isn't any reason that you too can not come up with a set of professional looking drawings, it just a matter of having the right program and finding time to get use to it.
Other drawings we used for Project COBRA'33 were for brackets, crossmembers and engine mounts, just to name a few.
These drawing was done for the top frame mounting bar of the trianglated 4-bar rear end. The top frame mount that came with the bars wouldn't work on our car because we used a Winters quick change rear end.
This is a pair of frame rotory racks we made. After the frame is tached up and everything is mounted, we placed the frame in this so we could rotate the frame as we welded it out. We will also use this rack to do prep work to the frmae before painting or powder coating not sure which one we'll use. if we paint the frame, we will use this rack to paint it on.
This is an engine mount we will build to support the Ford 4.6L engine to the frame. Because of the un-usuall combination, a pre-made Ford engine mount was not available.
This drawing depicks the upper crossmember and the upper 4-bar attachment bracket we made.
Learning to comunicate through your key-board is a very rewarding and fun practice to get involved in. You too can generate simular results with the right piece of software and a litlle experiance.